Since dodder has incredible vitality, the main rule for the gardener is to make sure that the seeds of the plants you plant, the organic fertilizers you use, the tools you work with do not contain the seeds of this pest or yourself.
If a dodder has been noticed on your site, avoid planting the seeds harvested next year (of course, we are not talking about large seeds that are deep in the fruit and that were removed after several days on the edge of the window).
Buy seeds of your favorite flowers in the store - it will cost a lot less: since the standards in our country prohibit the use of seed, dodgy stuffy, conscientious manufacturer before the sale holds a special seed phytopathology examination, so buy stroll with the main crop is virtually impossible.
Do not ask the manure of his familiar grandmother, because you do not know what they should feed his animals. Purchase fertilizer in proven locations and ask the manufacturer or seller if they warrant the purity of their products. It is believed that the manure completely rotten - is a reasonable assurance that the seeds of the weed, and if it was, lost their germination.
The same caution must be applied to the soil used for sowing. Never take the land in a meadow where a lot of weeds, and it is best to buy the finished extract in the store: a basecoat is not very expensive, but they are guaranteed uninfected by parasites and in addition saturated with all necessary plants organic and inorganic substances. There are cases where weed seeds are introduced into the groundwater used for irrigation, but there is much more difficult to defend.
So, be extremely careful and remember: Dodder, as a rule, rage on untilled meadows, and penetrate the date parasite first helps our own carelessness.
If dodder appears in your garden, there are ways to remove the grass without resorting to poison use or long-term quarantine.
Thus, we already know that the main potential hazard of the dodder is its many seeds, able to last long, even if they are deep enough in the soil. Therefore, the main and primary task is not to ripen the seeds of the parasite.
Mechanical removal of the dodder from the plant to which it has been sucked is an ineffective way of controlling the weed - just do not notice a small piece of the stem - and the parasite will recover. Therefore, the diseased plant must be extracted from the ground and burnt without mercy, and the sooner the better
You can try to remove the dodder from the plant only if the parasite has not yet wrapped its prey, and the phenomenon is clearly isolated. However, in this case, several follow-up inspections are necessary because the ragged stems attach easily to the donor plant.
Infected with dodder seeds, the soil can be tried to clean. There are many ways for this.
The first is to bury the seeds to a depth where they can not rise. The uniqueness of the dodder lies in the fact that, as mentioned, it does not have its own developed root system, so its seeds can germinate exclusively in the superficial layer of soil. Therefore, an effective method of fighting dodder is the deep digging (preferably no less than two bayonets of the shovel) with a mandatory overturning of the soil - this allows you to "bury" the seeds accumulated on the surface as well as deeply as possible.
The second method is to artificially stimulate the seeds to dodder as soon as possible in order to destroy their shoots and not attach themselves to the plant-victim (as has been said, without any energy source, the dodder is practically unprotected). Stimulating germination of the remaining seeds on the surface can be abundant watering in autumn and spring for a few weeks before landing in the soil of the main crop.
Sprouted seeds quickly yield seedlings that can easily be removed by surface treatment. However, if the young shoots of a vine a week or a year and a half do not find a plant that could be suckled, they will die themselves because of their inability to develop autonomously.
An additional precautionary measure after soil cleaning is the planting of those crops on which the plant does not parasitize. For example, oats and wheat are quite resistant to this parasite.
Infected meadows of dodder, it is recommended to mow before the flowering of the plant. If we are talking about a vegetable garden, it is necessary to cut at a height of 2-3 cm above the ground as the affected grass (eg in the driveway) and its neighbors in a radius of at least 1 m. reinfection.
Another method for dealing with dodder is fire. To this end, in the second half of the last century, the United States used special flame throwers (flame weirs) to manipulate vineyards and mown grasslands. A similar technique is used in some European countries. In our country, there is no such equipment, and it is not safe to use an open fire in the country.
Finally, another non-chemical way to control dodder is the use of Alternaria fungus mushroom medications; however, in our country, these biopreparations are problematic and, moreover, they only act in a humid environment, that is, the stem of the dodder must be kept for a long time. As soon as the plant dries, it stops being exposed to the mushroom
The use of herbicides for the destruction of dodder
Our recent ancestors, desperate for lime, tried to use iron and copper, vitriol, and even kerosene and sulfuric acid against it. The first two drugs have not shown great effectiveness, as for the third and fourth, then the use of these substances at the dacha, perhaps, is like treating a headache with a guillotine.
Therefore, in particularly difficult cases, when neither the fire, nor the "sword" nor the "like" can defeat the parasite, there is only one way out - the herbicides. We can not say that their choice is too big, but with some persistence, it is possible with their help to overcome the dodder on vegetables, fruit trees and vines. +
If it is necessary to dispose of dodder seeds on the soft bed of the main crop, ethylhexyl salts and ethers may be used. When mixed with ammonium nitrate and ammonium sulfate, these medications will help you avoid weeds. But if there are other plants on the site affected by dodder, especially dicotyledons, they will suffer as drastically as the pest itself.
Safer for glyphosate these crops, but they can not be used after installing rose. Therefore, the drug should be used after provocative watering, as soon as the germs of dodder, but before transplanting the main crop. The second option is processing in the fall, after harvest and again after active irrigation
Important! Herbicides kill a young cuscine much faster. When the parasite starts to bloom, its resistance to chemical preparations becomes much higher. Therefore, in the fight against dodder, time works against you! Another secret: herbicides work best on moist plants, so the treatment is done preferably after rain or heavy watering.
Get rid of weeds that poison vegetables, much more difficult than the news of this pest in prairie grasses.
On potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, tomatoes and other Solanaceae dodder destroy soil herbicides such as "Reiter", "Gezagard", "Liquid Zenkor" and so on. N. (The last drug produced by the German company "Bayer" destroyed the dodder at the beginning of its growth).
But C-metalohlorovye drugs such as "Typhoon" or "double gold" can kill only duscus in a concentration that is dangerous for vegetables too. +
Carrots can be saved from the dodder with a mixture of herbicides "Stompe" and "Reitar".
Among the other herbicides recommended to control dodder, it is possible to identify also Titus (the manufacturer is the Swiss company DuPont) and Targa (a Japanese drug Nisan Chemical).
Dodder is a very dangerous weed. Herbicides help to get rid of them, but for a positive effect, they can only be combined with each other, as well as with other agrotechnical techniques (earthworks, quarantine, planting unaffected crops, etc.). ). Only such persistent and systematic work can give a result of 100%.
Source : https://fr.madlovefarms.com
So, be extremely careful and remember: Dodder, as a rule, rage on untilled meadows, and penetrate the date parasite first helps our own carelessness.
If dodder appears in your garden, there are ways to remove the grass without resorting to poison use or long-term quarantine.
Thus, we already know that the main potential hazard of the dodder is its many seeds, able to last long, even if they are deep enough in the soil. Therefore, the main and primary task is not to ripen the seeds of the parasite.
Mechanical removal of the dodder from the plant to which it has been sucked is an ineffective way of controlling the weed - just do not notice a small piece of the stem - and the parasite will recover. Therefore, the diseased plant must be extracted from the ground and burnt without mercy, and the sooner the better
You can try to remove the dodder from the plant only if the parasite has not yet wrapped its prey, and the phenomenon is clearly isolated. However, in this case, several follow-up inspections are necessary because the ragged stems attach easily to the donor plant.
Infected with dodder seeds, the soil can be tried to clean. There are many ways for this.
The first is to bury the seeds to a depth where they can not rise. The uniqueness of the dodder lies in the fact that, as mentioned, it does not have its own developed root system, so its seeds can germinate exclusively in the superficial layer of soil. Therefore, an effective method of fighting dodder is the deep digging (preferably no less than two bayonets of the shovel) with a mandatory overturning of the soil - this allows you to "bury" the seeds accumulated on the surface as well as deeply as possible.
The second method is to artificially stimulate the seeds to dodder as soon as possible in order to destroy their shoots and not attach themselves to the plant-victim (as has been said, without any energy source, the dodder is practically unprotected). Stimulating germination of the remaining seeds on the surface can be abundant watering in autumn and spring for a few weeks before landing in the soil of the main crop.
Sprouted seeds quickly yield seedlings that can easily be removed by surface treatment. However, if the young shoots of a vine a week or a year and a half do not find a plant that could be suckled, they will die themselves because of their inability to develop autonomously.
An additional precautionary measure after soil cleaning is the planting of those crops on which the plant does not parasitize. For example, oats and wheat are quite resistant to this parasite.
Infected meadows of dodder, it is recommended to mow before the flowering of the plant. If we are talking about a vegetable garden, it is necessary to cut at a height of 2-3 cm above the ground as the affected grass (eg in the driveway) and its neighbors in a radius of at least 1 m. reinfection.
Another method for dealing with dodder is fire. To this end, in the second half of the last century, the United States used special flame throwers (flame weirs) to manipulate vineyards and mown grasslands. A similar technique is used in some European countries. In our country, there is no such equipment, and it is not safe to use an open fire in the country.
Finally, another non-chemical way to control dodder is the use of Alternaria fungus mushroom medications; however, in our country, these biopreparations are problematic and, moreover, they only act in a humid environment, that is, the stem of the dodder must be kept for a long time. As soon as the plant dries, it stops being exposed to the mushroom
The use of herbicides for the destruction of dodder
Our recent ancestors, desperate for lime, tried to use iron and copper, vitriol, and even kerosene and sulfuric acid against it. The first two drugs have not shown great effectiveness, as for the third and fourth, then the use of these substances at the dacha, perhaps, is like treating a headache with a guillotine.
Therefore, in particularly difficult cases, when neither the fire, nor the "sword" nor the "like" can defeat the parasite, there is only one way out - the herbicides. We can not say that their choice is too big, but with some persistence, it is possible with their help to overcome the dodder on vegetables, fruit trees and vines. +
If it is necessary to dispose of dodder seeds on the soft bed of the main crop, ethylhexyl salts and ethers may be used. When mixed with ammonium nitrate and ammonium sulfate, these medications will help you avoid weeds. But if there are other plants on the site affected by dodder, especially dicotyledons, they will suffer as drastically as the pest itself.
Safer for glyphosate these crops, but they can not be used after installing rose. Therefore, the drug should be used after provocative watering, as soon as the germs of dodder, but before transplanting the main crop. The second option is processing in the fall, after harvest and again after active irrigation
Important! Herbicides kill a young cuscine much faster. When the parasite starts to bloom, its resistance to chemical preparations becomes much higher. Therefore, in the fight against dodder, time works against you! Another secret: herbicides work best on moist plants, so the treatment is done preferably after rain or heavy watering.
Get rid of weeds that poison vegetables, much more difficult than the news of this pest in prairie grasses.
On potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, tomatoes and other Solanaceae dodder destroy soil herbicides such as "Reiter", "Gezagard", "Liquid Zenkor" and so on. N. (The last drug produced by the German company "Bayer" destroyed the dodder at the beginning of its growth).
But C-metalohlorovye drugs such as "Typhoon" or "double gold" can kill only duscus in a concentration that is dangerous for vegetables too. +
Carrots can be saved from the dodder with a mixture of herbicides "Stompe" and "Reitar".
Among the other herbicides recommended to control dodder, it is possible to identify also Titus (the manufacturer is the Swiss company DuPont) and Targa (a Japanese drug Nisan Chemical).
Dodder is a very dangerous weed. Herbicides help to get rid of them, but for a positive effect, they can only be combined with each other, as well as with other agrotechnical techniques (earthworks, quarantine, planting unaffected crops, etc.). ). Only such persistent and systematic work can give a result of 100%.
Source : https://fr.madlovefarms.com
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